Registered: Nov 2000
Location: Florida
Posts: 316

Anyone here know a bit about engine repair?

I have a 99' Chevy Malibu w/ 3.1 V-6 engine that has a blown head gasket.

I've done a lot of basic shit with auto repairs, but never anything quite as involved as this. I've already ordered a Chilton's manual, but my question is how long this should take me to replace the gasket? Any tips while I have everything apart, i.e, anything else that should be replaced/ inspected other than gasket and condition of head?

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

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Registered: Jul 2000
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 10229

no idea on a malibu, i've only done a head gasket once on a escort. chiltons should walk you through it pretty thoroughly. probably should pick up a new head cover gasket while youre at the parts store and a good time to do plugs n wires too. make sure you properly torque the botls and tighten them in the proper sequence (which should be in the chiltons, if not go to the library and get a chevy manual)

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Registered: Oct 2001
Location:
Posts: 18136

torque and order important, yes.

better yet, take the car back and get somethin that was built before 1974 and took somethin we used to call "ethyl".

she hasn't been at a pissup in years, but some of us older members remember her with fondness. it was the smell, I think...

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Registered: Dec 2001
Location: Ducktown, GA
Posts: 1428

It's going to be a real booger if that is your first cylinder head remove and reinstall. You can get a little more work room by undoing the rear motor mount and getting a jack under the back of the motor to raise and lower to get a bit more space. Keeping stuff clean is really important, dont be letting stuff fall into all the water jacket and oil holes. After the heads are off, wipe the tops of the block off carefully with a good stinky solvent so it's relatively clean, and put some duct tape over to keep the crap out while the heads are out at the shop. That's right, I said shop. If you are going to tug the heads anyway, drop them off at a high volume cylinder head machine shop, and get them a little love. If given a choice between new and knurled valve guides, go with the new, despite the few extra bucks. Let them clean up the heads, and check for warping, theres a reason gaskets go bad.

Get a quality gasket set, something with o-rings for the oil and water jackets, and compressible metal shims for the cylinders, most sold today will have this. The head gasket must go on dry, no gasket goop allowed, so you want good dry sealing. You can use permatex ultracopper for the rest of the stuff. It's a good time to have a real good look at the water pump and timing belt too, while you have most of the car apart.

General tips: It's going to take you a good while to do this, so ensure a good clean, secured workspace. Take a lot of pictures before and during dissasembly (digital cameras rule for this) so you can see the placement of things as it goes back together. Use baggies to keep fasteners and small parts together, label well. Same for wires, masking tape and a sharpie. Run a tap down the head gasket bolt holes, ensure the tap is clean and oily, this will help you get better, safer torque on the heads. Clean the engine compartment and engine real good at a coin car wash first. Soak exhaust manifold bolts with wd-40, then break-free right after the wash to help with slightly less miserable removal. Get a good set of mechanix or craftsman type gloves for lowering the blood to work quotient, especially when working on the rear bolts. After you have torqued down a gasket once, it's done. When you realize you need to take it off again for something, get a new gasket.

Number one tip, get some good beer in, and talk to your buddies that work on a lot of cars. If this is your first, expect close to 15-20 hours work to get it right. You'll need some moral support, and that guy with the long bony fingers once in a while.

Have fun And tell us how it came out. It's doable with patience, and you'll get a good feeling having done it yourself. I really wouldnt try to do this over a weekend and expect to drive to work on Monday in the car.

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Registered: Nov 2000
Location:
Posts: 5131

Blank,
I also suggest using some tape and numbers on those electrical connections and vacuum lines. There are only about a thousand connections there so before you unhook something, wrap some tape around either side of the connection and number it. That way on reassembly you just find the two connections that say #1 and plug them together.

BTW, before you start ripping stuff apart, how do you know it's the head gasket, and do you know which side?

torque's correct about the knurled vs. new. Though in some racing applications I'd argue with him. For your purposes, pay for new valve guides.

Wow, a pretty accurate post there torque.
I'm not used to that. Most people here that want to talk cars can only relate to that time they installed curb feelers on their 84 Escort.

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Registered: Nov 2000
Location: Houston
Posts: 545

Have a backup car available for parts runs and the possibility that the rig won't be done on time so you can get to work. Work on a contemptuous grimace for the engineers responsible for rediculous part and bolt placements.

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Registered: Jan 2002
Location: Shreveport, LA
Posts: 3830

yes, that last bit is especially important, since you're dealing with a japanese engine.

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Registered: Nov 2000
Location: Florida
Posts: 316

Thanks for the info!!

I know it is a head gasket due to little black specks in the coolant, i.e. oil slowly seeping in. I figure it can't be anything else but a head gasket. I don't know what side it is, but I'll change out both sides anyways. I have a friend who works on cars coming over tonight to confirm this.

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Registered: Sep 2001
Location: ........
Posts: 15003

...........seal on the water pump?

Any white stuff (water) in the oil?

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Registered: May 2003
Location: N. Texas
Posts: 3463

quote:

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Originally posted by skalie
...........seal on the water pump?

Any white stuff (water) in the oil?

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